I just put down a deposit and paid the permit fees to climb Aconcagua in 2025! At 22,841 feet (6962 meters), this is the highest peak in Argentina and across the Americas. We will be guided by INKA Expediciones from Mendoza, Argentina. Everything I have read and seen about their operation so far has been highly impressive. Daniela from the front office has also been super friendly and responsive to questions and needed clarifications. I can already tell that they are the premier provider for Aconcagua.
I will be doing this adventure with Neil, my tent mate from Denali Prep. He is working on the Seven Summits and invited me to join him. Neil has already done Kilimanjaro and Mount Blanc with Mount Vinson scheduled for December. By the time we meet up again in Argentina, he will be half-way there!
I am very excited to be doing this with Neil but once again, a bit nervous… much like I felt when I submitted my application for the AMS Denali Prep Course in Alaska. 23,000 feet is a big mountain!
Making the Right Decision
Am I taking my own advise about following the order of things? Is there something else I should be doing, or should have done, between 18,500 on Orizaba and 23,000 on Aconcagua? I just declined a second opportunity to climb Bolivia in 2025 with the same hiking group I passed on for 2024. This time, they are including Sajama, Bolivia’s tallest peak at 21,463′. Oh… decisions, decisions. Honestly, I’m just hoping to get from this experience what I didn’t get from Denali Prep while trying to prep for Denali.
360° Traverse Acclimatization Program and Itinerary
Either way, this is what INKA’s acclimatization program and itinerary looks like for their 360° Traverse:
DAY 1 – Arrive in Mendoza, Acclimate to Argentina (altitude: 2,493 feet, 760 meters)
Arrive in Mendoza and stay in a hotel arranged by INKA. Although, I read that it is wise to arrive a day or so earlier in case of late flights or lost luggage. It might also be nice to check out the city and acclimate to being in Argentina before this expedition officially begins (rather than afterwards).
DAY 2 – Obtain Permits, Shuttle to Puenta de Inca (altitude: 8,858 feet, 2700 meters)
After park entrance and ascent permits are obtained, the group meets at INKA’s office to meet the staff and finalize arrangements. From there, we will drive 3 hours to Puente de Inca to spend the night at a mountain refuge. That afternoon will be spent getting equipment ready for transportation by mule in the morning.
DAY 3 – Trek to Pampa de Leñas (altitude: 9,678 feet, 2950 meters)
Approx. distance: 8 miles, approx. elevation gain: 820′
We will be driven to Punta de Vacas, the Aconcagua Park Entrance. Here our permits will be checked at the Ranger station before heading off to Pampa de Leñas. A 4 to 5 hour trek starts our 3-day approach to Base Camp at Plaza de Argentina.
DAY 4 – Trek to Casa de Piedra (altitude: 10,662 feet, 3250 meters)
Approx. distance: 9 miles, approx. elevation gain: 984′
On this day, we will advance for 6 to 7 hours towards an intermediate camp, passing through the Quebrada de Vacas. From here, we will get our first view of the Western Face of Aconcagua. This is where we spend our last approaching night before arriving at Base Camp.
DAY 5 – Trek to Plaza de Argentina (altitude: 13,779 feet, 4200 meters)
Approx. distance: 7 miles, approx. elevation gain: 3,117′
We will trek for another 5 to 6 hours, ascending the Relincho steep slope, which takes us to Inferior Plaza Argentina. This is where we will be able to see the last native vegetation before climbing towards the glaciers, where Plaza Argentina is located.
DAY 6 – Rest Day at Plaza de Argentina/Base Camp (altitude: 13,779 feet, 4200 meters)
At Plaza de Argentina, we rest and use the day for acclimatization. This is a good opportunity to get to know the camp, take a shower and explore the area. We get together with the guide, do a medical check up, reorganize and review the equipment, prepare the loads for transportation on the next day.
DAY 7 – Carry to Camp 1 (altitude: 16,076 feet, 4900 meters)
Approx. distance: 2+2 miles, approx. elevation gain/loss: 2,297′ / 2,297′
Keeping backpacks as light as possible, we continue to take our supplies higher while focusing on acclimatizing. During the load transportation to Camp 1, we reach a level of 4900m before returning to Base Camp.
DAY 8 – Rest Day at Plaza de Argentina/Base Camp (altitude: 13,779 feet, 4200 meters)
After the hard days of carrying and climbing, we rest and our energy.
DAY 9 – Ascend to Camp 1 (altitude: 16, 076 feet, 4900 meters)
Approx. distance: 2 miles, approx. elevation gain: 2,297′
We start the ascent to Camp 1 taking the first part of the Polish Route. After a 5 to 6 hour walk on easy terrain we arrive to Camp 1 (4900m). We grab our supplies that we carried the day before and assemble camp. Another load is then prepared and divided to carry the following day.
DAY 10 – Carry to Camp 2 (altitude: 18,044 feet, 5500 meters)
Approx. distance: 2+2 miles, approx. elevation gain/loss: 1,968′ / 1,968′
We continue our gradual acclimatization to altitude. During the load transportation to high Camp 2, we reach an elevation of 5500 meters. This is another hard day of walking about 6 hours, where we ascend on easy terrain and then return to Camp 1.
DAY 11 – Ascend to Camp 2 (altitude: 18,044 feet, 5500 meters)
Approx. distance: 2 miles, approx. elevation gain: 1,968′
Using the Ameghino Traverse Route, we will ascend from Camp 1 to Camp 2 and meet with the load that was carried the day before. We assemble camp and then rest and have dinner.
DAY 12 – Acclimatization at Camp 2 (altitude: 18,044 feet, 5500 meters)
This day is dedicated to improving the acclimatization to altitude. The guide may propose different activities according to the condition of the group. We take the opportunity to rest and give our body more opportunities to acclimatize.
DAY 13 – Ascend to Camp 3 (altitude: 19,586 feet, 5970 meters)
Approx. distance: 1 mile, approx. elevation gain: 1,542′
After breakfast and disassembling our tents, we start ascending for about 4 hours. We will take the last part of the Upper Guanaco’s Valley Route. Camp 3 is placed at the same altitude as the Berlin Refuge (from the Normal Route), strategically situated to cover from winds.
DAY 14 – Summit Day (altitude: 22,841 feet, 6962 meters)
Approx. distance: 2+2 miles, approx. elevation gain/loss: 3,255′ / 3,255′
This is the most demanding day of the expedition. We climb the North Ridge to Independencia Refuge at approximately 6500m. We ascend through the “Portezuelo del Viento” , climb “La Canaleta”, and the “Filo del Guanaco”, that leads us to the summit. The prize is waiting for us, a 360° view and the experience of achievement that we will only understand once we reach it. At the end of this experience, we return to Camp 3.
DAY 15 – Extra Day for Bad Weather (altitude: 19,586 feet, 5970 meters)
We have two extra days set aside on our itinerary to attempt summit. These extra days are built in to provide the best possible conditions for each participant to summit.
DAY 16 – Extra Day for Bad Weather (altitude: 19,586 feet, 5970 meters)
We have two extra days set aside on our itinerary to attempt summit. These extra days are built in to provide the best possible conditions for each participant to summit.
DAY 17 – Descend to Plaza de Mulas/Normal Route Base Camp (altitude: 14,107 feet, 4300 meters)
Approx. distance: 4 miles, approx. elevation loss: 5,479′
On our way back, we go from Camp 3 to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp, the largest camp in the Aconcagua Park. We’ll enjoy a great dinner to celebrate the experience and enjoy the view of the west face of Mt. Aconcagua.
DAY 18 – Return to Puente de Inca (altitude: 8,858 feet, 2700 meters)
Approx. distance: 15 miles, approx. elevation loss: 5,249′
We have breakfast and then start our descent to Puente de Inca. There will be a private transport waiting for us to take us back to Mendoza.
DAY 19 – Depart from Mendoza
After breakfast at the hotel, we will check out and head home.
Here’s a CalTopo map of the route as I start marking waypoints to use for tracking on the mountain.
T-minus 125 days ’til departure!